On vacation, my husband finds joy early in the morning casting in a trout stream. However, I tend to sleep in and ease into my day, which generally involves shopping and a long languid lunch before we meet up again for cocktails and dinner. So while we don’t always enjoy the same things, we do agree on where they should commence—Western North Carolina. Liam’s love affair with the region began before we met, but he introduced me to the Nantahala National Forest during our long-distance courtship—and we’ve been going to the region ever since.
Photo by Sarah Rau
Rock Mountain in morning light is reflected in the still waters of Hampton Lake.
While we’ve stayed all over the Blue Ridge Mountains, we have found our happiest places to be the twin cities of Cashiers and Highlands. Last August, for our 25th wedding anniversary, we decided to treat ourselves to some time at the celebrated, historic High Hampton Resort in Cashiers, a beloved summer destination. For over 100 years, the unique property has been welcoming generation after generation.
THE INN AND COTTAGES
Photo by Sarah Rau
With its bark-sided exterior, wrap-around porches and rustic wood-paneled interiors, the charming Inn at High Hampton embodies the very essence of rustic mountain luxury.
Since it was our first visit, we chose to stay in the main original inn instead of one of the cottages, although I’m sure we will be exploring those on our next trip. High Hampton evokes the charming atmosphere of a mountain retreat with its exterior bark siding, wraparound porches, stone fireplaces, and chestnut wood paneling. The minute you pull up , there is an expectation of engaging in outdoor activities—perhaps on the private lake—and also of relaxing in a rocking chair on the porch while soaking in the views. All of these impressions are wrapped in a cloak of a quiet luxury that envelops you as you enter the front door.
Photo by Sarah Rau
Cottages Rooms are rustic, yet elegant accommodations located steps away from the Inn.
Our room was an ideal melding of rustic and refined—a twig bedframe dressed in sumptuous linens and botanical print fabrics paired with plaids, along with an unexpected colorful quilt from India at the foot of the bed. The capacious bathroom (basically the size of a New York studio apartment!) includes an enormous walk-in shower and a sublime soaking bathtub—something I always hope for in a hotel but rarely encounter. And while the resort has been renovated with more modern amenities, the rooms remain television-free, which encouraged me to leave my phone out of reach and truly unwind. I also appreciated the adjustable swing-arm lamps on either side of the bed so I could stay up a bit later reading while my husband went to sleep.
DINING AT THE RESORT
Photo by Ingalls Photography
The Tavern is tucked into the first floor of the Inn and spills out onto a shaded outdoor dining terrace overlooking Hampton Lake.
On our first morning, after Liam had left to go trout fishing, I sauntered down to have breakfast in the Dining Room, which offered a favorite classic French omelet with goat cheese and a lovely calibrated latte. I then spent the day exploring in town. When I returned to the Inn, I wandered into the Tavern nestled on the first floor (open for lunch and cocktails), where I treated myself to a spicy Bloody Mary before heading back to the room to get ready for the evening.
The Dining Room doesn’t have a rigid dress code (collared shirts for men are required), but you do want to dress for the occasion. Since Liam had just returned from a day meandering through rhododendron and casting for trout while I was running around town, we actually wanted to dress up. I donned a floral caftan while Liam wore crisp khakis and a navy blazer.
Photo by David Christensen
In the Dining Room, Executive Chef Scott Franqueza creates menus inspired by Southern favorites, reimagined with local Blue Ridge Mountain ingredients.
The Dining Room has a different feel for a summer dinner than it does at breakfast. The beautiful American chestnut paneling is highlighted by glowing blue glass chandeliers and sconces along with candlelight. We were seated at a window table with lovely views of the 1,400-acre property. And since we were in a celebratory spirit, we opted for the dinner course with wine pairings—what an ideal choice! Our sommelier was full of knowledge, and the wait staff was extremely accommodating as they treated us like old friends of the resort. While Executive Chef Scott Franqueza’s menu is seasonal and focuses on local sources and purveyors around the South, I can assure you that whenever you dine there, you will find sophisticated fare as well as comforting classics. One of the red wines we especially enjoyed was Maison des Ardoisières Silice Rouge. And while neither my husband nor I are big dessert people, we decided to indulge after reviewing the options and split the S’mores Tart, a sophisticated version of that camping classic that was prepared with smoked sea salt.
ACTIVITIES AT THE RESORT AND BEYOND
Photo by Molly Harris
A hike on Rock Mountain Trail offers vistas of the resort and surrounding countryside.
High Hampton offers golf, racket sports, lake activities, and time-honored leisurely croquet. Those pursuits provide a rare, wide-open view of the entire watershed bordered on one side by an impossibly steep and bald mountain—local landmark Rock Mountain. When we visit Western North Carolina, we like to experience what is so unique to the area—the hiking trails, which often reveal a waterfall or sunset as a reward for your effort. There are many trails on the property, or you can venture further afield. Whatever you choose, be sure to return to the generous lounge beds with individual umbrellas to recover in style—or perhaps take a brief nap (this is my definite happy place on the property). Cue the views!
Photo by Molly Harris
Hampton Lake is ideal for paddling the day away or finding a quiet spot to fish for bass and trout.
Photo by Molly Harris
Situated between the dahlia gardens and the Fitness Studio, the tennis and pickleball courts, developed under the direction of Andy Roddick, provide mountain views in every direction, as well as match and open play opportunities for every level of player.
While there are opportunities to fish on the property, and the resort will also arrange fishing for you off property, Liam prefers to create his own fly-fishing excursions through the knowledgeable group at Brookings Anglers, outfitters with locations in both Cashiers and Highlands. The expert guides here have access to both remote public and private waters and are completely versed in the region. While they can’t guarantee that you will catch a certain number of rainbow, cutthroats, or brook trout, they have never disappointed Liam with the experience.
When we are not hiking or fishing, we do like to do some shopping in town. TJ Baileys is a favorite with its highly curated selection of men’s and women’s clothing and accessories. Liam picked up a button-front shirt from Italian brand Bugatchi, which was new to him. The boutique has a beautiful selection of Roberto Coin, and on this visit, I discovered the fashion jewelry of Pig & Hen, handcrafted in Amsterdam. Toby West Home is our other must for shopping. It’s filled with antiques, tabletop décor, and a great selection of lamps. We chose some beaded-glass cocktail glasses and a grouping of lovely sinuous vases.
Photo by Molly Harris
High Hampton Dahlia Garden
While we love the area in the fall, we almost always include a visit in late summer to escape the intense heat of our home base in Birmingham, Alabama. By staying at High Hampton in August, we were able to experience the beautiful dahlia garden managed by Drew English. I loved it so much that I wrote about it when I came home.
DAHLIA DAYS
Inspired by the vibrant blooms of the Dahlia Garden, High Hampton is partnering with FLOWER Magazine for an event full of color and inspiration. Enjoy the three-day event August 11-14, 2024, at the Inn with FLOWER Magazine Founder and Editor-in-Chief Margot Shaw and special guests as they explore flowers, fashion, design, and more. Learn more about the event.
Photo by Molly Harris
Lounge with a view!
When we were saying goodbye and leaving the property, I was struck by how self-contained it is—just like the nearby summer camp my son attended growing up, although on a more elevated level of course. There is so much to do or not do, along with outstanding food, helpful staff, and comfort at every turn. I thought next time, shopping be damned—I may just hand over the car keys at the front desk for the duration of our stay and simply rely on the golf carts and the well-stocked gift shop!
SPONSORED BY HIGH HAMPTON
By Alice Welsh Doyle
PLAN YOUR HIGH HAMPTON ESCAPE
High Hampton Resort, highhampton.com, @highhamptonnc
Dahlia Garden, @highhamptondahlias
Drew English, @the_english_gardener_nc
Brookings Anglers, brookingsonline.com, @brookingsanglers
TJ Baileys, tjbaileys.com, @tjbaileys
Toby West Home, tobywesthome.com, @tobywesthome
